The Dressing Room: Going Deeper with Annie Arrasmith, Chris Pink, and Jerry Lariz
Ever wonder how those sizzling entrees and mouth-watering cocktails come to fruition? From the initial concept to the final dish, the process of creating a menu is a labor of love that requires creativity, experimentation, and attention to detail. Here at The Dressing Room, there are a few very special people that bring it all together. Let’s get cozy and take a peek behind the curtain at the hardworking individuals who make it all happen. From their unique backgrounds and specialties to their favorite dishes and funny moments, get ready to take a seat at the table and get to know the creatives behind the magic of The Dressing Room. In the following interview, Chris Pink (Artistic Director and Owner of Can Can), Jerry Lariz (Executive Chef), and Annie Arrasmith (Bar Manager and Mixologist) share a deep dive into our menu.
THECANCAN.COM: Where does dish, drink, and dessert inspiration usually arise from? What is the creative process of creating a dish?
Chris Pink, Artistic Director: Our menu’s conception is a collaborative effort, a process that has gone through various phases. At the onset, we worked with our chef, Jerry Lariz, to curate ingredients that were both a combination of what was available in the market, as well as flavors that we loved and wanted to see on the menu that would identify as Can Can, which is usually something that's not typical. One of the primary ingredients to the Can Can recipe, in general, is that we have a tendency to lean toward uniqueness. We love the greatest hits, but there's always some sort of spin on them that makes them uniquely ours. It’s a kind of originality that translates into nearly every other part of the establishment, as well.
After pinpointing what makes a dish or drink a Can Can dish or drink, Jerry took these basic foundational ideas and concepts and then turned them into reality with his own spin. There was a lot of trial and error, and honestly, we started off with nearly double the menu items we have right now. Over time, we’ve slowly refined the menu to become exactly what we wanted it to be and what our guests wanted. All that said, after our initial conception, Jerry has taken the reins and continues to bring a wealth of passion, wisdom, and knowledge to our food program we are thankful for every day.
Jerry Lariz, Executive Chef: The menus we create here are very dependent on the season. Anything that’s seasonal is what I’ll use as a reference guide and then go from there. Sometimes I’ll take inspiration from things that have been successful in the past, whether at Can Can or past restaurants I’ve worked at in Seattle. We are a French-influenced restaurant, but the focus for us is actually more towards highlighting what’s available and pertinent in the Pacific Northwest. It’s nice going down to the Pike Place Market and seeing what’s available. Sustainability is also big for us. Once you’re sure you can get the product consistently, then it’s all creativity from there.
We get a good amount of patrons that come in, especially for the shows, that are looking for certain accommodations. So I try to make things that are either 100% Vegetarian, gluten-free, or there's an option to make a certain thing that way. In this day and age, a lot of people have certain diet restrictions. It's easier having a menu set for that, versus trying to like, figure out what we can or cannot do. Fae Pink (the owner) is more of a vegetarian/vegan, so she likes having dishes like that. I try to do that as much as possible. Plus, it’s not difficult to do, really. Especially for vegetarians, I love using fresh produce. It's very easy to find whatever's in season and come up with something that everyone would love.
Annie Arrasmith, Bartender and Mixologist: I love collaboration, especially with the other bartenders here. There are about 7 of us. If creativity is something that they want in their life, as far as cocktails, by all means, let’s do some R&D sh-t, let’s bang it out. But I leave it up to them – I’m not pushy. Some people just enjoy the art of making cocktails, not crafting, and that’s fine.
Our cocktail menu is a little bit of ours and then a little bit classic. For example, the Tuxedo Number 2. Classic Martini. In my opinion, this place just screams Martini. But it also likes to highlight the action. So, it's kind of like a Corpse Reviver Number 2, but just more spirit-forward. I would say about 80% me and 20% classic.
THECANCAN.COM: How do the Can Can performances/shows affect how you create the Dressing Room menu?
Chris Pink: The menu changes naturally, just as we change shows seasonally. It also just so happens that these movements fall in line with ingredient availability and what becomes fresh in each season. Menu changes or specials don't always line up show-to-show, necessarily, as we prioritize serving dishes that reflect the freshness of the market, which could change month-to-month or last a whole season. A prime example is when we ended Wonderland earlier this month and switched to House of Hearts, we still have our winter ingredients available even if our “winter” show has closed out. Again, we want to adapt our menu as naturally as possible which is why our relationship with the Market is intrinsically connected.
Jerry Lariz: I do like to try and create something, for instance, a dessert that fits with the show that’s running. Our shows tend to fall within a seasonal track, as well, so it all comes together in that way. Right now, with the size of our kitchen and operation, it wouldn’t be beneficial for us to have two separate menus for the Dressing Room and the theatre. The theatre menu features items you can also order in the dining room, but we’re thinking about what can be produced in the time frame that’s appropriate for the shows – it’s just more logistical.
THECANCAN.COM: How does patron feedback play into creating or adapting the menu?
Chris Pink: We do our best to stay very in tune with feedback, whether it be a review left online or what’s noticed internally. For instance, when plates come back after someone’s dined with us, we take in what we see. “Why did this dish come back only half-eaten? Why did this one come back licked clean?” If we find that a certain dish isn’t getting a good response, we take the feedback and make intuitive adjustments. Even if it’s just one person or one voice, we take every opinion seriously. Every voice matters, and we listen constantly and carefully to what our guests say.
Annie Arrasmith: There can be a lot of trial and error when it comes to combining flavors. I like a lot of feedback because I don’t drink anymore. But even so, everyone’s palate is different, so you can’t always focus on what you’d personally like. Right now, we’ve got our new “Polar Espresso Martini” with a mint element. It’s dope. We have a crushed candy cane rim going around the glass…super complicated stuff going on back here. Anyways, I had a couple come in before we released it, and they wanted a drink with some kind of espresso in it. I asked if they wouldn’t mind trying out something new. Cue the Polar Espresso Martini. I looked over to their table maybe 30 seconds later to try and catch their reaction – they inhaled them. Annie Laughs. So that was a good sign. I like being able to have patrons try out ideas we have and get that direct feedback.
When I stopped drinking during the pandemic, I was mentally prepared to leave my profession. But, I wanted to at least try. I am a significantly better bartender now than I ever was. I feel like my brain has more creative space than fog, these days.
THECANCAN.COM: What is your favorite item on the menu right now? What would you say our patrons’ favorite item is?
Chris Pink: Oh, that’s a tough one. There are a couple. In the Dressing Room, I am in love with the ham and cheese crepe, which I order gluten-free. And, along with that, I usually get the gluten-free, vegan chowder – it might sound like a crazy combination, but it's extraordinary. Everybody is just in love with the chowder. Since it’s the morning, of course, I’ll get a side of bacon. If I don’t go for that, I’ll have the kale salad. For dinner, generally speaking, I'll get the salmon, which is ever-changing depending on the season. The preparation or the type of salmon we use can change, but it's always fresh off the boat and purchased daily in the Market.
I was actually looking at my pictures yesterday, and I found this hilarious picture that I took of Jerry holding a giant salmon in our theatre. He just walks through the theatre with this huge fish, and I'm like, “Jerry, what the f–k are you doing, dude? Like, get over here - I have to take a picture of this!”
But, yes - the salmon is definitely one of the greatest hits. Also, the steak is a go-to. People absolutely love the burger. The fall harvest salad with beet chips is literally to die for. People just cannot get enough of it. If we order it at our table with people who don’t usually order a salad, by the end of the meal everyone has lapped it up. And, of course, there are the usual suspects – but better – like our house-cut fries with parmesan or the mac and cheese. It is the unique takes on classics that folks just keep coming back to.
Jerry Lariz: Usually, my favorite menus are the spring menus, mostly because of certain vegetables that I really like using. So, that's what I’m working on currently, right now. I know that doesn't come out until March, so I'm slowly working on it. In the past, I've worked with a bigger team of chefs and can bounce off ideas. But here, it’s just me creating them, so I tend to try to give myself as much time as possible to do some research and bring all the inspiration and ideas together. As for my favorite categories of menus that I create, that’s definitely salmon dishes. I'm always a big fan of cooking fish, in particular King Salmon, which is one of the best and a really well-known fish for Seattle.
THECANCAN.COM: Where do you hope to take the menu in 2023?
Chris Pink: Because we’re in the market, we’ll always have our version of greatest hits. The consistency in bringing in something new will always be us doing our own thing. On the surface, a dish or cocktail may seem classically inspired, but if you really dig into the depth of it, there's always a unique take on whatever that might be.
Moving forward, we'll continue that. Over the next year, we'll be doing some adjustments to the Dressing Room. The odd thing is that we technically haven't finished the restaurant's decor, which we're getting ready to do. We have a closet full of costumes and props that will go in there and all of these Can Can-esque things that we haven't put up in the Dressing Room, yet. We’re looking forward to doing that. And then, I think the quirkiness of the decor will translate into the food and what we do with the menu.
Jerry Lariz: Something that's really crucial in understanding how dishes are being received, is seeing what dishes look like when they come back. Seeing how much people are actually eating or not eating. That's the best way to actually get feedback and know if people actually enjoyed it, as well as an opportunity to judge the portion size. That's one thing that with the more time that I'm here, I’d like to better understand. We have course-style meals for the shows, so I have to make sure I'm not over-serving, or if it's too much for certain people and try to accommodate that. Also, since it's the same menu as the Dressing Room, I don't want to downsize it too much. I strive to make sure that the show side is taken care of in a certain manner.
I hope we grow to a point where there can more of a separation in menus for the Dressing Room and the theatre. I think it would be a really exciting change, and we’d be able to lean more into the influence of the shows themselves. For now, I want to keep leaning into the feedback from our patrons and really perfect the balance of portions and what they’re wanting from us.
Annie Arrasmith: Over the next year, I plan on increasing the number of non-alcoholic drink options on the menu. If we could have 8-10 cocktails, I would like 5 non-alcoholic options. Right now, we have Wilderton Lustre, it’s the closest to being a nonalcoholic gin. It’s a very orange blossomy, very herbal profile that we can make a Lemon Drop with. It’s tasty and can be used in other ways where you don’t need as much sugar.
We also have the Aurora Elixir Fizz that’s really fun. People are sick of soda water with lime. They have Lacroix at home.
It has been really exciting watching the non-alcoholic scene grow in Seattle. At the bar I was working at prior, I would see people order a cocktail, then an NA, and then order another cocktail. It was really nice seeing people try to self-regulate or pump the breaks a little bit on their own. It makes it easier to practice mindful drinking. It’s not easy when you’re drinking the most addictive poison in the world, you know?
THECANCAN.COM: What’s it like being a part of the team?
Jerry Lariz: I definitely enjoy it. It did take some time to get adjusted to the pace and environment. The theatre affects the flow of when food is ordered. There’s a rhythm to it, and also in the Dressing Room, that’s different from a typical restaurant. It took me a little while to figure out that pace. That's why when I create a dish, I want to make sure that it's able to be prepared multiple times in a good manner and within the timeframe. I definitely enjoy working here. I've known the family for quite some time, and I've been wanting to work for Can Can for a while. It's been about a year and a half and it's been nothing but good here.
Annie Arrasmith: I am feeling a little bit of impostor syndrome. That's because I'm used to knowing everything about my workspace, and being a person who, right now, knows the least because I've been here the least amount of time feels different. I'm confident in what I can do, I just need to gain confidence in this space. But I love it. Everyone has been very welcoming. I think that the shows here are a blast. It's fun. No one's been off-putting, there's usually one at every spot, but not here. It's a good time, for sure.
THECANCAN.COM: How would you describe the Can Can family?
Chris Pink: The soul of our organization is, on the simplest level, a creative being. Whether you're in marketing, you're in the kitchen, you're in the bar, you're on stage, you’re in the back of the house, you’re in the front of the house – it doesn't matter where you are. Our sun is creativity, and everybody revolves around that creativity. So having someone like Jerry feel and understand what we're doing on the stage, or the bar understanding what we’re doing backstage, we’re all working for the greater cause of bringing joy to our guests and spreading love to our community.
With every show, everyone comes back to the center with an understanding of what we are working tirelessly day and night to achieve. That's the thing that ties the entire Can Can family together. There's a shared passion for compassion and caring. We care about our neighbors, we care about the people who are living outside on our doorstep, and we care about things that exist around us. That’s how we connect. It doesn't matter what your job is, what you do, or who you are within the organization, we all share in the greater good and positivity we put into the world.
Don't just read about it, come taste the magic for yourself! Reservations can be made online through Open Table.